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  • AHYMSIN / HYMTA Retreat by Marylou Nunamaker
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  • Mt. Kailash and Lake Manasarovar Pilgimage by Sujata
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Mt. Kailash and Lake Manasarovar Pilgimage

by Francine Kuo (Sujata)

A promise, an offering, an external journey to the inner Self
Pilgrimage of Mount Kailash and Lake Manasarovar

This summer, with blessings of Gurudeva, i was able to meditate in front of Lord Shiva in Kailash. It is a long journey, 10,000 kilometers to and from my hometown Taichung, by pass Hong Kong, Kathmandu in Nepal, Lhasa in Tibet, then reach Shigatse, Saga, Darchen and all the way to the adobe of Holy Mother and Father, and the Home of us all.

Grace of Gurudeva

There are two reasons for me to visit Kailash. One is for Lord Shiva and the other is for Swamiji [Swami Veda Bharati]. My little wish to dedicate the fruits of Kailash pilgrimage to Swamiji is very natural. In fact, if it is not for Swamiji, the idea of going to Kailash will never come to my mind. Therefore, when i said i want to offer this to Swamiji, on the contrary, to put it more precisely, this great opportunity was actually offered to me by the blessings of Swamiji.

Before the pilgrimage, i wish to have the blessing of our Gurudeva Swami Rama. Therefore, i went to stay in Ayurveda Centre in HIHT so that i can meditate in Swami Rama’s Center every day. One evening, just after i complete my meditation and come out of Swami Rama Centre, i look up the sky and i could not believe what i had seen in my eyes. i literally saw Mount Kailash in the sky. At that moment, i realized that Swami Rama has used his magic to grant me the permission and blessings to head for Kailash. All the concern and worry has gone like wind. Another incredible thing is one of my dearest spiritual sister, whom i haven’t seen for many many years, suddenly texted me that she see me in Kailash in her dream!!! There it is, no more hesitation, i started to plan the pilgrimage.

There are many challenges even before the journey started, yet it is all worth after Manasarovar and Kailash Yatra. It was very impressive about the foundation construction in Tibet. The highway was surprisingly smooth so that people don’t have to suffer from car sick much. For prevention of acute mountain sickness (AMS), i took all the strategies necessary before and during pilgrimage including taking Diamox, Rhodiola, walking exercise, hatha yoga, breathing exercises, and special mantra sankalpa of purash charanas. Perhaps all these preparation worked; Lord Shiva has granted His grace on me so i did not suffering too much from AMS except for 2 nights of nausea.

Lake Manasarovar and holy bath

The first glance of Mount Kailash was full of gratitude in my heart when we arrived at Lake Manasarovar. It is such a joyful moment that some of us without thinking instantly kneeled down to pay the homage to Lord Shiva and Mother Parvati. After asking Lord Shiva and Mother Parvati’s permission, we took our symbolic holy bath after step into the Lake. It was very very cold! After taking some breaths, i started to take bath one by one for my long list of names, from grand grand guru, grand guru, Swami Rama, Swami Veda, Swami Ritavan to my families and some other dear ones. Most of us had prepared a big bottle to fill the water in the Lake for our families, friends and students back home. It is believed in Tibet tradition that whoever completes the parikrama of the Manasarovar, bathes in the Lake and drinks the water of lake will no longer be bounded of incarnation, and will come to the adobe of Shiva after one’s death. It was a great belief, but i trust what Swamiji taught us that we still need to do sadhana to enter. Those who did not come to Kailash but sincerely do sadhana in life and in meditation certainly are more qualified to win Grace of Shiva then those who visited Kailash and Manasarovar but did not practice purification in any forms. Later after back to the guest house near the Lake, we held a very formal Yajna in the names of Shiva by chanting Mahamrityunjaya mantra and other Shiva related mantras.

A letting go reflection and practice

Next day, we stayed in Darchen, the nearest city to Kailash. Here we did final hiking preparation. For the whole journey, it’s also a journey of letting go. In Nepal, we all brought a big suitcase, then gradually changed and cast away unnecessary items to duffle bag. This final night in Darchen, we had to change to a little day-pack. In the process of changing bags, i realized that how few things we actually need. Downsized to a day-pack, what we really need is only water, medicines, rain poncho, and some candy. It’s a letting go process, a re-examination of our so-called “modern life requirements”. Not just the bag, we hold on to modern idea of convenience too. Walk on the path of pilgrimage reminded me to look carefully about desire, fear, viewpoint about value and true meanings of compassion. Pilgrimage made me reflect that there are still so many things i need to improve and purified.

Slow walking, japa, silence and meditation in Mount Kailash

Started from Yama-dwar, Kathopanishad’s story was in mind. We did some puja in the Gate of Death and circled around Yama-dwar, entering the gate then coming out. Symbolically, that represents to let go like Nachiketa gave up those seductive offers from Lord Yama. It is thought these resolve so that our journey on the path should begin. i have seen many things had been left inside the little temple and wished that we could give up our attachment to the world just as easily.

After Yam-dwar, i gradually distanced from my group members. i was in the end of the group. i actually quite enjoyed the situation though, which made my wish to do Parikrama in silence naturally possible. The rest of the Parikrama i started to observe silence during hiking listening to the ajapa japa of my personal mantra. The whole hiking process then became an internal journey. Body has its limits, breath sometimes can’t catch up, even a small bag with only passport and camera becomes heavy, yet the mind was very clear and full of joy. My happy porter could not speak English and Chinese well, and he walked much faster than me. However, he was very considerate and always waited for me after a while in front and offered me my water bottle. The rest of the time, he left me alone to enjoy my solitude. i am very grateful to have had such a good porter. On the way, i saw many Tibetan people doing the Parikarma by making full prostrations. They believe by doing this, it would strengthen their determination of sadhana, realization the value of becoming a human being, train mental power, free from ignorance and solid their devotion. i felt very touched and shared some chocolates with some of them and silently blessed all these devotees to reach their Goal in success and in wellness.

The most unforgettable memory of this pilgrimage is to be able to meditate in front of Kailash. It was when we reach the north face of Mount Kailash. After rest a while in the guest house, our leader took us to climb up even more to closer to the top of Mount Kailash. We dedicated a Tibetan 5 colors prayer flag and Hanuman flag on the top. Group members were all very happy and took photos here and there. My wish was to do meditation here. i bowed to the Kailash and got Shiva’s permission to sit on one of the big stones facing Mount Kailash and started to meditate. It was Shivaratri this day, and it was the auspicious moment around 4 pm. i silently received the grace of Lord Shiva. The moment i opened my eyes, i started to feel sound again and only a few friends from my group still remained with people from other group. One of the group members is also an initiate from other line of lineage of Adi Shakaracharya. So we feel like guru brother and sister. He invited me to do a little puja in front of close-up Kailash with Nirvana Shatakam. i was more than happy to do so; it is also one of Swamiji favorites and therefore mine too. After this, i silently chant our evening prayer to be the offering. It became very windy and we decided to back to guesthouse.

After Kailash and Manasarovar Yatra

Every time i think of the moment of meditation in front of Kailash, the energy and grace naturally flow as it is at that moment. i offer this wonderful external and internal journey to our beloved Swamiji and all teachers in the Guru lineage. i pray for everyone who is dedicating their life in helping people like us to make the pilgrimage possible. Those leaders, guides, sherpas , drivers, porters in the Himalayan and Tibet area.

What after pilgrimage? i guess is back to chop wood and carry water in daily life. Above all, i tell myself that we must learn to see things from the topmost prospective to prevent subjective way to judge what is right and wrong because in Lord Shiva’s innocent eye, there is no duality of any kind. The only absolute truth is only in Shiva’s Consciousness, and that is the where we all truly should belong. May Lord Shiva continue to guide us, and May the grace of Lord Shiva flow to everyone’s inner Mount Kailash wherever one’s meditation seat is.

OM Sri Gurave Namah~
OM Namo Shivaya~
Om Shanti Shanti Shanti

sujata

Himalayan TTP student, E-RYT-500

Center leader of Himalayan InSky Yoga Center, Taichung, Taiwan

(https://www.facebook.com/inskyoga)